More Mennones in Madrid!

Today is kind of a sad day, although the sun is shining and life is admittedly, quite good. This morning my parents left to go back to the states. It’s kind of strange, I feel like they were here for such a short period of time, and now it’s over. This is really the halfway point here, I’ve been here for more than half of the time and I’m on the downhill slope for the next 7 weeks.
The week started out last Sunday, when I went to the airport with Molly to pick up my mom. I was so excited when I saw her that I dove under the railing and ran up to greet her at the door. She had had a long delay because a man on her flight from London had a gun in his checked luggage that he had forgotten to declare (way to go, buddy). But we got her here, and took the metro/a taxi into the city to the Palace Hotel.
I wish that I could describe to you the grandeur and the sheer elegance of this hotel. Built in 1912, it is a wave of chandeliers, marble, fresh flowers, and men in top hats who open the door for you. It is a huge dome of stained glass, with a piano player and a circular hall where you can sit on cozy sofas for drinks underneath. The rooms defy all other hotels, with marble bathrooms and entryways, and “heavenly” beds (no lie, that’s what they call them). Every night the maid comes in and turns down the bed, complete with chocolate. The fitness room (oh, the fitness room) holds a fantastic view of Madrid, with treadmills and stationary bikes and ellipticals complete with their own television screen. Disposable headphones are provided. Those of us, like my parents and me, who are “preferred guests” get put on the top floor, the sixth floor, where every morning there is fresh coffee and teas and fresh apples. I was originally only going to stay when my dad was in Ireland, but we ended up getting a cot for me to stay there the whole time. My mom brought my sweaters for the winter, and surprised me with Halloween candy for all of us in the program (although I’ve already opened the bag, so it might not make it) and pretzels for me and my family here. It seems so strange to call Babis and Emilio my “family”…I already have a family, I already have a house. But what I’ve realized is that “family” is more than just a blood unit…it is the people around you who make you feel happy and secure and safe. And while I don’t need more parents, I will always need more family.
After taking my mom out for tapas and big San Miguels (beer), we went back to the hotel to sleep. The next day, she wandered around Madrid (in the rain) while I was in class. Then we decided to try to find a restaurant that my señora had recommended, El Landó. Unfortunately, although this is an incredibly well known restaurant in Madrid, no one seems to know how to find it. After walking around for almost two hours, I finally asked a man who decided to take us there himself. After thanking him profusely, we boldly entered the little restaurant (the door was closed) and told the lady that we wanted two people for lunch (it was 4pm). The head waiter sadly informed me that the kitchen was now closed until dinner. So he took us next door, which also had just closed the kitchen. Then he sent us up the street to a bar, telling me to order my mom and I some bocadillas de calamare and tell the guy that so and so from el Landó sent us. Unfortunately, by this point I was at the end of my rope and basically began to cry, so we ended up going back to Sol to get some ice cream and some snacks. Then we headed up to my Spanish house, where Babis had made a beautiful little table of tapas for my mother. I made the startling discovery that my host mother actually speaks almost fluent English! Her daughter also came to help translate. We stayed for a while, and my mom got to see how clean I’m keeping my room here. The next day, we went to the gym in the morning and then enjoyed a late breakfast. My mom came with me to my flamenco class, to see me tear it up on the dance floor (heh…heh). Mikey’s friend, who is studying in Cairo, also came to our class. They are actually partners in ballroom dancing at GW, so it was really great to watch them. After class, my mom and I set out once more to el Landó – I was determined to eat there. We successfully found it…only to find it completely booked. Completely dismayed, I made reservations for the following day, and we went back to the area near my house to an Italian place that I’ve always wanted to try. I then went off to class, and returned home late that night. We decided just to ask the concierge to recommend a place nearby…the problem with being a student in Madrid is that you don’t know a lot of nice restaurants where you can take your parents. We ended up at a tapas bar called El Cervantes, where we had a delicious shrimp dish (which I still can’t believe I ate) and some toast with a fish called bonito, which is like tuna, only better, and olives the size of my thumb (and beer of course, haha). On Wednesday, I got up and went to class, and my mom treated me, and I’m not ashamed to admit this, to a Starbucks. I don’t care how un-Spanish that is…it was wonderful. Haha…then I went off to class, including a language midterm, and my mom went to the Prado. After classes, I rushed home and changed my clothes and we took a taxi once more to el Landó. This time, we were immediately sent downstairs, where there was a table waiting with our name on it and a big plate of bread already waiting for us. We had a fantastic meal of melon with ham (a Spanish specialty), pan con tomate (a dish from Cataluña, which is toasted bread rubbed with tomato and garlic and doused with a liberal amount of olive oil), another shrimp dish, chicken and wine. Then the waiter gave us a free plate of desserts with our coffee. We watched a stereotypical sleazy Spanish man at a business lunch get really drunk…he had the slicked back, greasy hair, dark olive skin, was probably quite handsome at one point, but was now over-accustomed to eating too much and was quite fat. He just kept eating and eating, smoking his fat cigar, and ordering more drinks. It was a pretty funny sight to see, and we kind of wanted to watch him for a lot longer. We felt very accomplished at finally getting to eat at our restaurant and if you are ever in Madrid I would very much recommend this restaurant…but go with someone who knows where it is!
We went out afterwards and bought some “turron” which is a very popular Christmas candy here. We took it back to the hotel to wait for my dad to arrive!!! He arrived on time, and we went out that night for paella. They brought it out in such a huge pan…we had a really fun night. It was so much fun having both of my parents here…I was so excited to show them my Spanish and my city. On Thursday, we got up rather leisurely (well I got up and went to the gym) and went out for breakfast at Mallorca, which is a fancy pastry shop which also has a nice café. Then I sent my parents out on a trip by themselves while I stayed in the hotel room and studied, because I had two midterms on Thursday. We went out for lunch and then I went back to the UAM to take my midterms…the first one, my history was two questions, the first of which was “What was the influence of the Catholic religion during the 15 to the 18th centuries in Spain?” After suffering like a good students through two exams, I rushed back to meet my parents near my house, and we went up so that my dad could meet Emilio and Babis. Then the five of us went out to dinner at a very nice place near our house here. We had a very typical Spanish meal, and I had a wonderful time with both sets of parents (haha). The food was really incredible, complete with the champagne cake that we ate at the end (how decadent). I was so happy that they all got to meet, and they were all so cute together, trying to speak a mixture of English and Spanish so that we could all understand each other. I played role of official translator, which was fun. We didn’t finish eating until after midnight and by then I thought my mom was going to need a piggy-back ride home. On Friday, we got up semi-early, and took the superfast train to Toledo. I showed off some of my cultural knowledge and took them to El Entierro del Señor de Orgaz (or whatever it is), a painting by el Greco, and the cathedral, of course. We walked around all day, enjoying the (finally) sunny weather and taking random pictures. Then the subject of my upcoming 21st birthday came up and my parents generously decided that I needed a gift for my birthday. After looking in several stops, I decided that what I really wanted was pearls (oh my gosh, I sound so spoiled). I should take this time to mention that my father is one of the most generous men, individuals actually, that I know and ever will know, and gets great delight from giving to others. I remember so many occasions when he’s bought something for my mom and then gets too excited to wait to give it to her. So we went into a store and the woman helped us pick out an absolutely gorgeous strand of pearls from the island of Mallorca, with a beautiful gold clasp. I know that whenever I wear these, I will always think of my parents and our time together in Spain. It is a perfect 21st birthday present.
We got back to Madrid around 6, and went downstairs in the hotel at 7 to have a drink. We sat in the elegant hall, underneath the stained glass dome, and I ordered a Bellini, which is a mix of champagne and peach juice. I got my dad to tell the waiter that it was my birthday, and he brought over little plates of almond cookies and chocolates. We sat in the hall for an hour, listening to the piano music and enjoying our drinks. I hope that my parents know how grateful I am that they came, and how grateful I am for their generosity. As much as I want all of you to visit, my parents mean so much to me, and it has been very hard for me to be away from them all this time. I will have this memory forever, of sitting with my parents in this beautiful hotel, with a fancy drink, wearing my 21st birthday pearls (they let me wear them that night, and then my mom rewrapped them so that I can open them on my birthday. Babis is holding on to them for me until then, haha). Then we went out and they got to meet my friends Molly and Vanessa, and I learned that Irish coffee is not what I like to drink. Then we went out for more tapas (good grief, all I do is eat!) to where my mom and I went earlier near our hotel. I think that I’m going to go back there with friends, it’s a very Spanish bar and tapas restaurant, with incredible food that’s not too expensive. It’s loud and busy and lots of fun (and the one bartender is pretty cute too!).
And after that it was time for me to leave. They had a 7am flight out of Spain, so they had to get up at 4am. I went back to my house here and talked a bit with Babis before going to bed. I have to admit that although I know that I don’t have much time left in Madrid, it was still pretty hard to say goodbye to my parents.
Tomorrow I’m meeting with a friend’s boyfriend (she lives in the US, but her boyfriend is from Madrid) to practice my Spanish and so that he can practice his English. I think that his English is better than my Spanish, but I’m really looking forward to practicing with someone my own age. Next week is Sevilla, Cordoba, and Granada…and my birthday is eleven days away. It’s pretty incredible that I’ll be 21, that I’ll be a real, live adult. But these are musings for another day…
Muchos besos mis amores, echo de menos a vosotros